Behind the Chair with Pro Colorists & Stylists
At oVertone, we’re all about the color journey, and that includes trips to the salon. 2020 has given us the opportunity to experiment with color at home. Fun and exciting right?! But what happens when we head back to the salon?
We asked some of our favorite Pro Colorists and Stylists how they work with oVertone behind the chair. Read on for suggestions on everything from using our Coloring Conditioners in the salon to creating a custom color plan for clients who’ve been using oVertone to color their hair.
If you’re a Pro and want a quick reference guide for working with oVertone, you can find one here!
An important note: These Pros are sharing their favorite tips and tricks, but results will vary depending on clients’ needs and individual circumstances.
Name: Taylor Rae Hair Studio
Taylor Rae
Specialty: Fashion color and color correction specialist Location: Denver
Social: @taylorrae_hair
What do you wish other stylists knew about working with oVertone?
There is always going to be some tint of the oVertone left after removing, so using color theory to cancel out the underlying tone will help you toward your end result. For example, if there’s a pale green left from oVertone, you can use Pravana Express Tones in Rose Gold to cancel out the green and leave a clean base for a warm blonde.
Knowing basic color theory is really going to help you when dealing with ANY direct dye products. It’s the same for Pravana VIVIDS, Arctic Fox, Manic Panic, and all the rest.
Have you removed oVertone from a client’s hair?
Yes I have, and there have been easy situations and more challenging situations.
Which techniques were most effective?
I would usually use some type of color remover, for example Pravana Artificial Color Extractor (which doesn’t exist anymore) or any sort of color clarifying treatment. You can also use Pravana Pure Light Creme Lightener to help gently lighten and diminish the tone.
This is why consultation is SO important! It’s essential to speak with your client and discuss what they’ve used on their hair. Obviously, over quarantine and lockdown, people are going to experiment, so it’s important to be specific about what’s been used on their hair. For example, I always ask, “Do you have salon color or at-home color on your hair?” And from there, you can go into more depth into which brands, when they last colored their hair, and what color specifically is on their hair (ex: red, orange, yellow), if any.
With almost all at-home direct dye colors, using a high level lightener will push the pigments deeper into the hair shaft, making them brighter and more difficult to remove. This is why trying to cancel the color out with toners will be more effective than trying to lighten the hair.
Building a good relationship with your client in their consultation is the key to a good relationship with them. Helping them understand the removal process (and setting realistic expectations) will ensure a good appointment.
How do you want clients to tell you that they’ve been using oVertone?
This goes back to the consultation. If I notice the client has existing vivids on their hair, I will ask them if they know what color and product is on their hair. Remind them that even if they can’t see the color on their hair anymore, it’s still there and will need to be taken into account.
How do you tell clients to prepare for their service if they’ve been using oVertone at home?
I tell them to stop using oVertone 3-4 weeks before coming in, to shower with hot water, and to use a clarifying shampoo like The Fader Shampoo from oVertone. The lighter their color is before coming in, the better and easier it will likely be to work with. It also depends on the actual color that they used. For example, blues and reds are generally more difficult to remove than pinks and purples across all brands.
Power of the consultation! What other things should stylists tell their clients about oVertone in the consultation?
When you have a consultation with your client, it’s important to discuss hair goals and set expectations around how to achieve them. If your client has a dream of being white blonde, let them know that you cannot guarantee your work if they use ANY at home coloring product—whether that’s oVertone, other color depositing conditioners, or any toning products—in between appointments. Remind them that sometimes patience is required, but it’s always worth it!
Can you tell us about your most challenging oVertone color correction?
Sure! Just so happens to be Liora—one of the Co-Founders of oVertone. I’ve been doing her hair regularly for the last 3 years, so I KNOW how much oVertone is in her hair.
Even though she knows better, she asked to go back to a Pastel Blue shade after using a combination of Extreme Teal and Rich Black on her hair for months. Hilarious. She’s so funny.
The situation:
Liora stopped applying any oVertone coloring products to her hair roughly 3 weeks before the appointment and used a clarifying shampoo frequently to try and get as much color out as possible before arriving at my studio. When she arrived, she had about 2–3 inches of new growth, with the fade on her ends looking like a deep midnight blue. Liora’s hair is curly and fine, so I wanted to look into all my options before resorting to lightener.
The steps:
1. I used Pravana Artificial Hair Color Extractor under the dryer for 25 min. After rinsing and shampooing, her hair lifted to greenish blue.
2. Then, I used Pravana Pure Light Creme Lightener with 10 volume (Creme Lightener is great for delicate hair that has been previously lightened, or extremely fine or damaged hair) to help diminish the pigment further. That lifted her hair to a light pale green. Because Liora’s end goal was a cool tone, I needed to then use a toner that supported her goal results.
3. Instead of using Pravana Express Tones in Rose Gold to tone her hair (because pink cancels green) I used Pravana Express Tones in Smokey Silver because it’s violet based. NOW HEAR ME OUT: Green is made up of blue and yellow. The violet in Smokey Silver will cancel out the yellow in the green, leaving her with a cool-toned blue silver! Color theory!
If you’re not looking at a primary color in your client’s hair, you can always investigate the makeup of that color to support your color correction.
The rest was pretty straightforward, with just a VIVID overlay using 3 parts Blissful Blue to 1 part Neon Blue, which Liora maintained with oVertone Pastel Blue at home.
Name: Gregg Lennon Jr
Specialty: Music Videos, Wigs, Color
Location: Los Angeles/ New York City
Social: @gregglennonjr
Website: www.gregglennonjr.com
What do you like best about working with oVertone as opposed to a traditional dye?
First and foremost, I am OBSESSED with the fragrance of the product. The cooling rosemary spearmint is a refreshing change when working with a client. I love the ease of application and richness of the color. Especially for my traditional blonde clients. It is a great way to ease them into a color without the commitment of traditional dyes. The rich Browns add so much dimension to darker tones and there are so many options for dark colors.
What do you wish other stylists knew about working with oVertone?
It is the easiest product to recommend to your clients. The ability to give them an at-home option for refreshing the vibrancy of their color ensures that every time a client tags me on social media their hair looks FRESH!
Have you applied oVertone in the salon? What are your favorite tips?
I use oVertone in the salon ALL THE TIME! I love to mix the products together to create new tones. For example, my favorite silver formula is Blue and Brown!!
Have you removed oVertone from a client’s hair?
Yes, so easy.
Which techniques were most effective?
Most of the time a clarifying shampoo like The Fader or dandruff shampoo does the trick.
How do you want clients to tell you that they’ve been using oVertone?
In my consultations I go over everything they have used in their hair, from color to styling products. It allows me to understand what comes next.
How do you tell clients to prepare for their service if they’ve been using oVertone at home?
I always recommend that for the best results that clients apply to clean, dry hair. For maintenance deposit only, using it in the shower with gloves on wet hair works too!! It’s a great conditioner!!!
Click here to get Pro A+ Client Status before heading back to the salon with these tips!